Have you ever experienced the issue of your resin prints sticking to the FEP film instead of the build plate? This problem is related to bed adhesion, similar to the issue of resin prints not sticking to supports as well as resin print warping. The main difference is that the former occurs at the bottom of the printed object when the printing begins, while the latter happens when printing halfway. Both can be frustrating problems. This article focuses on how to solve the problem of resin prints not sticking to the build plate.
Causes of Resin Print Not Sticking to Build Plate But FEP Film
Have you ever experienced waiting for over more than ten hours for a print, but finally find that the resin print has only cured the bottom layer and sunk to the bottom of the printer vat? What a disappointment! And you would have to clean your FEP film as well. This issue can arise due to a noticeable gap between the zero position (Z=0) of the platform and the FEP film, preventing proper adhesion of the resin to the build plate during printing. Additionally, insufficient curing time and fast lift speed for the bottom layers can result in a weak print base.
- Build plate is not flat and level.
- Bed adhesion strength is poor.
- Tension of FEP film is lost.
- Bottom exposure time and layer count are insufficient.
- Z lifting distance is not enough to peel off 3D print from the FEP film.
- Z lifting speed is too fast.
7 Solutions for Resin 3D Not Sticking to Build Plate But FEP Film
1. Align and level buildplate.
An unlevel and misaligned building platform can result in printing failures, such as printed objects not adhering to the buildplate. Similar to FDM 3D printing, resin 3D printing also requires bed leveling. Now there are many options with auto-leveling functions available for FDM printers in the market, but resin printing is still a relatively new technology, and manual leveling is required for the majority of printers. It is necessary to align the four points of the platform to improve the success rate of printing. However, in May 2023, Anycubic released the first automatic leveling desktop resin printer - Anycubic Photon Mono M5s. Its arrival saves users the trouble of manually adjusting the screws on the platform and conducting multiple leveling tests. Alternatively, there are detailed instructions on "How to Level Resin 3D Printer".
2. Check buildplate surface if it is deformed.
If your buildplate is deformed, it can affect the result of leveling calibration, and sometimes the deformation may not be found by your eyes. Usually, a tool such as caliper is needed with straight edges. Place it on the buildplate and inspect it with a light source to see if there is any light passing through the gap between the tool and the buildplate. If light passes through, it indicates that the platform is uneven. Besides, deep scratches on your buildplate can reduce the adhesion of printed parts to the plate. This is a sign that you need to replace your resin build plate.
3. Tighten your loose FEP film.
A loose FEP film may lead to failed prints, and the prints may stick to the FEP film, not the buildplate. This issue can occur when the FEP film is not properly replaced or when the screws on the vat frame become loose over time, causing a loss of tension in the film. To settle this, you can tighten the screws on the back of the metal frame to increase the tension of the film. Then, gently tapping the film should make a drum-like sound, indicating that the film is well-tightened.
4. Increase bottom exposure time and bottom layer count.
The bottom exposure time and bottom layer count are important printing parameters that how long to cure and how many layers are used for the print bottom. As resin 3D printers work in a bottom-up motion, the bottom part serves as the foundation of the printed object, and this portion requires good adhesion for higher overall printing success rates. Therefore, the bottom exposure time is typically longer compared to other parts of the print. To resolve resin prints not sticking to the build plate, it is recommended to increase the bottom exposure time by 10 seconds and add 5 additional bottom layers to the current parameters. This adjustment will ensure great adhesion and stability for the base layers of the model.
5. Increase Z lifting distance.
After each new layer is printed, the Z-axis will rise a certain distance to allow fresh resin to flow into the gaps and form a new cured resin layer. This is known as the Z lifting distance. The FEP film is elastic and stretches slightly when the platform lifts. If the lifting distance is not long enough, the printed object may not completely detach from the film, preventing new resin from curing and resulting in incomplete resin prints. Then, the uncured resin may settle at the bottom of the resin vat and adhere to the film instead of the build plate. Therefore, it is necessary to appropriately increase the lift distance. There are specific parameter resin settings available for Anycubic resin 3D printers that can be referenced for this purpose.
6. Decrease Z lifting speed.
If the Z lifting speed is too fast, there will be a large force between the object layers and between the object and the FEP film when the buildplate rises. This can easily lead to model breakage, resulting in failed prints such as support detachment and the object not adhering to the build plate. Appropriately decreasing the lift speed, the stability of the printing process can be improved.
7. Generate a raft on the bottom.
Rafts are a foundation or base created beneath the supports and the object in resin printing. Similar to rafts in FDM printing, their purpose is to enhance adhesion to the build plate and prevent warping and detachment of the object. It is a basic setting in slicing software. Taking Anycubic Photon Workshop V3.0 as an example, the term "raft" is named "base". You can add a raft by accessing "Support" >> "More Settings" >> "Support Settings" >> "Base".
How to Remove the Sticky Print From Your FEP Film
Generally, it is necessary to clean your resin vat and FEP film, as well as the remaining liquid resin, after each unsuccessful print to ensure the quality of the next print. If you encounter cured resin stuck to the FEP film, it is crucial to remove it properly. FEP films are fragile, and any sharp objects can damage them, leading to resin leakage during the next printing. Before cleaning, make sure you wear gloves and protective goggles, as liquid resins are toxic. Then, spray some IPA onto the FEP film and gently lift the cured resin from the bottom edge with a plastic or silicone scraper. For more detailed instructions, you can refer to the article titled "How to Properly Clean Your Resin Vat & FEP Film".